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Captain Purple's JEEPJEEP Page
 

Here's the latest on the moonroof.
The insert is sewn into place. Beacuse of the way the slipstream goes over the car when it is in motion, it doesn't get dirty when you are driving! But when you are stopped, of course it does get cat paw prints, smog, fallout from Georgia brush fires, etc etc and so it needs a bit of cleaning now and then. Neither this one nor the first one leak, not even one drop. These pix were taken after the top was in use and left in the Florida sun continuously for 6 months. If you want info on how to do this to YOUR jeep, email me .
 
Here's a view from me standing on the bumper. From the road level you can't really see it.
 
And here's what it looks like looking "up"! In the rain and on a moonless, starry night on the beach it's AWESOME!
 
Since the top is a Bestop, it PARTIALLY folds back, like this. Yes, you have to be careful you don't scratch the clear top - it should be clean or cleaned before you fold it over.

I finally got fed up with that idiotic mirror business.My son come down at Christmas and proceeded to break the mirror off by (of course) not paying careful attention. Of course the whole glue (ahem...'adhesive') thing is an engineering abomination -- an accident waiting to happen...done by the same mentality that didn't think through the O-rings cracking at low temperatures, or the incorrect Detroit english that the DOT requires on the side-view mirrors. Don't get me started.

So I now have wasted 5 months, an off-brand replacement mirror (crap) and 6 of those annoying glue packages (which should come with a pure isopropyl cleaning pad. (but don't, the cheap bastards)...
 
Got a piece of aluminum barstock: 1/8" x 1" x 48" --- it was a whole $3.
Made a quick template by bending a metal coathanger as a guide.
Mark a piece of the barstock 7-3/4" long. Do not cut it until after you have bent it (it's easier that way)
Bend the aluminum by putting it into a bench vise.
Then cut and deburr it.
 
Notice I mounted it to the body using 4 x #8 Self-tapping sheet metal screws. Pre-drill the barstock for clearance holes, then mark the body. I would suggest making a start mark with a center punch so the drill doesn't walk. Drill small tap holes, enough for the sheet metal screws to get started in.
Down by the glass, there's an 8-32 screw with a rubber bumper glued on it. The bar is threaded for the 8-32 screw. Adjust the 8-32 screw until the rubber foot just rests on the glass.
 

The actual mirror is held on the barstock by:
(a) an 8-32 going through its normal screw hole; there's a lockwasher and nut on the back . I could have used a nylock. (b) There's ALSO a 4-40 flat head philips with a lockwasher and nut below the main screw hole. That was done to make sure the mirror mounting block didn't rotate.
 
This particular mirror is a piece of replacement crap made in Mexico and sold at all the local supply chains. The real Jeep mirror (I am going to investigate the real OEM one further...) has a METAL ball and socket arrangement. This piece of crap replacement has a plastic ball and shaft arrangement, which is not only NOT STABLE, but it rather freely transmits the vibration right through so that the glass vibrates and shakes. The original good Jeep mirror ABSOLUTELY did not do that, but the mirror glass broke when it fell off the 3rd time.
 
 
Notice I mounted the mirror LOW ENOUGH so that I can still see out the back when the back window is rolled up. The Bestop replacement top window hangs down 1-1/2" lower than the OEM window did when it is CAREFULLY rolled up and held in place with the 2 snap straps. I find that the mirror is better when it is about 1/2" lower on the front window that it originally was, although I am guessing that the previous owner glued the mirror back on the window a little bit higher than OEM.
 
Enjoy!
This mirror is just the tip of the iceberg. Wait til' you see the FULL WIDTH thumbscrew adjustable curvature
plexiglas mirror I'm building to go across the entire window...
 
Last years goodies:
 
Here's the mil surplus clock mounted in the dashb---- ahem, bulkhead.
 
The plastic had to be filed away for the knob to fit, but then it was tidied up with magic marker and looks just fine.
 
There is a little filament bulb inside a real rarity in these clocks. I stripped the wires and connected right to the dashboard flexible Printed Circuit board by soldering right to the copper traces, and tie-wrapping the wire to prevent stress.
 
The bulb in the clock is 5V. It draws about 50 ma, therefore using a 220 ohm resistor works just fine, and tracks the rest of the dashboard lights nicely. The 220 makes the clock a bit brighter than the other bulbs, but using a 270 ohm makes it about the same.
Here's what we call DOGNET. Mac and PC couldn't resist trying to climb over the spare tire and sneak out, but the netting restricts them very nicely.
Notice PC is so intimidated his ears are pinned back.
The hook for the netting wraps around the post and anchors in an eyebolt hole. There are also 1/4-20 eyebolts all over the back area to affix bungi cords to.
Here's a Plano ammunition box used as a center console box.
It's affixed right to the floor with 4 #12 self-tapping sheet metal screws and the stress is evened out with the nice fender washers. This has been in place for 4 years and works flawlessly.
There's a half-top opening for pens, loose change, mini flashlights, etc...
The center handle space perfectly fits glasses or a cell phone.
And here's the full top open. Notice the tray insert. A helluva deal for a whole $16.